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Figura 3 - Modelo sendo ajustado com Audaces 4D.

03/08/2020

Improvements in modeling, fitting and risk processes to reduce waste of raw materials and textile waste

3 min

According to CNTL, the National Center for Clean Technologies in Brazil, the majority of national clothing companies (80%) are micro, small, and medium-sized businesses, and often the biggest factor of competitiveness is in the reduction of operating costs (CNTL , 2006).

The Cleaner Production process (PML) is a tool to bring benefits to the overall efficiency of the production process, and list the following factors as those of vital importance.

  1. The elimination or minimization of raw materials, in which case implementation of new technologies to optimize the cutting of fabrics, and other inputs that may impact the environment;
  2. Reducing waste and emissions, eliminating waste, increasing productivity, minimizing environmental liabilities and increasing health and safety at work;
  3. Contribution to the environmental awareness of employees, improvement of the company’s image and reduction of expenses with fines and other penalties;
  4. The improvement of the company’s image towards employees, suppliers, consumers, and the public authorities.

The main focus of this article is on the factor that discusses the elimination and/or minimization of the use of raw materials. Since it is the factor that impacts not only on the environment but also directly on the costs of the company, which can make the businessmen a little more aware.

When we talk about modeling, we can list the new forms of modeling, among them the processes of “zero waste”, subtraction modeling, ecodesign, among others that make the products perform better during all phases of their development, including the fitting, favoring the risk and making a leaner cut.

The “zero waste” modeling, that is, zero waste, or tending to zero waste, is the modeling designed not to leave pieces of fabric in the socket that is not used in the piece, thus, each space of the socket is a part of the piece that will be used in the assembly of the same. Thus, the fit and risk tend or are equal to zero.

 

       Figure 1 – “Zero waste” Modeling Process.

 

Subtraction modeling is the way of thinking about the product by removing only small parts of the fabric, through modeling bases, and each part resulting from the subtraction is sewn to another creating very interesting volumes. It is a process that waste is greatly minimized and can still be used as details in the pieces, such as pockets and lapels.

 

Figure 2 – Subtraction modeling, a technique developed and applied by designer Julian Roberts.

 

And ecodesign is the global thinking in product development, not as it is usually developed, in a linear, but circular way, considering its entire life cycle and, for this, it must be thought about the environmental impacts in all processes: materials, durability, style, color, shape, production processes, post-production, and marketing; including the way that this product will return to the cycle on return to production when it would turn into garbage. It is an interesting way of thinking about the product since at the moment of conception its cost is still zero and it can have process adjustments without losses.

The ways described above are ways to interfere with the design of the product making it more sustainable. But we need to highlight the use of specialized CAD´s to reduce time, waste raw materials and improve product quality, such as Audaces software.

Starting with modeling, Audaces Moldes streamlines the production of molds, avoiding the use of paper. Through Audaces 4D, it is possible to make a virtual test of the model for possible adjustments without the need to make excessive pilot parts, avoiding waste of production time, excess material, and discards.

 

Figura 3 - Modelo sendo ajustado com Audaces 4D.

Figure 3 – Model being adjusted with Audaces 4D.

 

After approval of the modeling, Audaces Encaixe, is vitally important, as it widens the visualization of the previously manual fitting, with a reduced vision, low proximity between parts of the mold, probability of fitting outside the straight wire, in addition to a waste of raw material, creates problems of wearability in the garment.

 

Figure 4 – Manual fitting with little visualization, and fitting with Audaces Fit to the screen and easy visualization.

 

The process, which is much more advantageous than the manual, still shows improvement with Audaces Supera, providing improvements of, on average, 3% compared to the previous one. 

 

Figure 5 – Your improvement with Audaces Supera.

 

And finally, Audaces Neocut processes the cut without the need for a scratch on paper, the parts of the molds can be juxtaposed and the cut is extremely precise, avoiding discards and rework due to the handling of clutter, inaccurate manual cutting, among others.

 

Figure 6 – Cut through Audaces Neocut.

 

The possibilities for thinking about a more sustainable product are numerous, however, many of them require an expenditure of funds that micro and small companies do not absorb. What does not prevent, from organizing, coming together, and through cooperatives and associations, to make a high investment in favor of improvements for the nucleus as a whole?

Therefore, all efforts for sustainability must be thought and rethought in the fashion industry, since it is one of the industries that most pollute, waste, and generate waste!

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