Ícone de Pesquisa

19/12/2016

BELGIAN FASHION: THE CREATIVE DNA OF A NATION

By Kledir Salgado
Fashion designer with a Masters in Textile and Fashion by USP

Have you heard about the Belgian fashion? Belgium is a leading provider of talents in the fashion world since the early 1980s, when a group of colleagues with unpronounceable names, which became known as the “Antwerp Six”, gained international fame.

Composed by Dries Van Noten, Dirk Bikkembergs, Marina Yee, Dirk Van Saene, Walter Van Beirendonck and Ann Demeulemeester, the class of the Belgian fashion then unknown, has opened the door for other designers such as Raf Simons and Kris Van Assche, who run, respectively, the female and the male style of Dior, or Anthony Vaccarello, responsible for the most affordable line of Donatella Versace.

Without forgetting the mysterious Martin Margiela, the fascinating Haider Ackermann or Olivier Theyskens, who signs the collections of the north-american Theory, after having passed by the French maisons Rochas and Nina Ricci. Other names are Raf Simons, Dries Van Noten, Martin Margiela and Ann Demeulemeester.

Much of the fame of the contemporary Belgian fashion id due to the movement that became known as The Antwerp Six. They graduated from the Royal Academy of Fines Arts in the early 1980s and had a radical and original vision of fashion. In 1986, the group rented a van and left for London with the car full of their own creations. There, they presented their collections at the show of London Fashion Week.

From left to right: Marina Yee, Dries van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Walter van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk van Saene. Photo: reproduction.

One of the differences of this Belgian fashion group is the building of a strong vision, noted since the first show. The proposals of the designers have always been avant-garde and intelligent. Thus, they created a whole universe, an own vocabulary own, and not just clothes. Many of them began to parade in Paris, as Dries van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester. To date, Dries fashion shows are among the most beautiful and unique to each season.

In Belgium, the academic part is overvalued and the students learn fashion in art universities. Among the major schools, we find the Antwerp Academy and La Cambre in Brussels with amazing teachers, such as Walter van Beirendonck, one of the Antwerp Six founders.

The Belgian fashion is very conceptual and intellectualized. The designers have a lot of personality in creation. However, nothing that might prevent the partnership with most commercial brands, as was the case of Margiela in Hermès and Raf Simons, currently under the creative direction of Jil Sander.

As noted, the fashion intellectualization has built the creative DNA of the Belgian fashion, which has become an example to follow by every fashion designer and by every fashion educational institution in Brazil.

The construction of the Brazilian creative DNA, in turn, will only be effective when we stop copying everything that comes from abroud, when we understand ourselves as a creative nation and, from that, we intellectualize our fashion in order to form a fashion professional who solves problems through a critical view of the world and not of the reproducibility of articles that only reach a greater number of sales.

John Galliano for Margiela

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.


Você também pode gostar de ler:

Discontinuity Notice of Audaces Apparel Vers. 11 and 12

22/08/2022

Discontinuity Notice of Audaces Apparel Vers. 11 and 12

Escrito por Audaces

macro trends

12/05/2022

What is macro trends? Understand what its impact on fashion is

Escrito por Audaces

cutting fabric

10/05/2022

How to obtain quality and precision in the cutting fabric process?

Escrito por Audaces

Integration between software and machines

19/04/2022

Integration between software and machines for even more efficient clothing 

Escrito por Audaces

emale entrepreneurship

14/04/2022

Female entrepreneurship: how do women act in strengthening the industrial sector? 

Escrito por Audaces

industrial-technology

12/04/2022

Find out how technology has been applied in the industrial sector

Escrito por Audaces

lean-manufacturing

05/04/2022

Lean manufacturing: knowing the principles and making the most of them

Escrito por Audaces

industrial-automation

31/03/2022

Industrial automation in the context of clothing 4.0 – discover the benefits 

Escrito por Audaces

fashion editorial

29/03/2022

How to produce a fashion editorial – Audaces complete guide 

Escrito por Audaces

Artificial_Intelligence

24/03/2022

What is Machine Learning and how does it work in Industry 4.0? 

Escrito por Audaces

textile-fabric

22/03/2022

Textile fibers: everything you need to know about the subject: Audaces manual 

Escrito por Audaces

cloud computing

17/03/2022

Cloud computing: what it is and how its technologies help in the making of clothes

Escrito por Audaces

What is beautiful

15/03/2022

What is beautiful? Know your concept for the art and fashion world

Escrito por Audaces

PCP for fashion clothing

10/03/2022

What is PCP and its importance in fashion making?

Escrito por Audaces

digital transformation

08/03/2022

Digital transformation: benefits and impacts on industries and clothing

Escrito por Audaces

Audaces 30 years

03/03/2022

30 years of Audaces: an interview with founders Claudio Grando and Ricardo Cunha

Escrito por Audaces

trends of the year

15/02/2022

Trends of the year 2022 for the textile segment

Escrito por Audaces

process mapping

10/02/2022

The importance of process mapping for manufacturing

Escrito por Audaces

fashion collection

08/02/2022

Learn about the processes involved in creating a fashion collection

Escrito por Audaces

time-management

03/02/2022

Time management: Learn to manage your time and leverage your results

Escrito por Audaces

the-future-of-the-apparel

01/02/2022

Industry 4.0: Everything you need to know about the future of apparel

Escrito por Audaces

Data analysis and Business Inteligence

25/01/2022

The importance of BI for data analysis and decision-making

Escrito por Audaces

Big Data

21/01/2022

Big Data: what it is and how it contributes to Industry 4.0

Escrito por Audaces

13/12/2021

Iris Van Herpen and her 3D Techniques in the fashion world

Escrito por Audaces

The biggest Spring/Summer 2022 trends for men

01/12/2021

Textile technology: trends for the year 2022

Escrito por Audaces

audaces-isa-gerenciador-de-colecoes-audaces

26/11/2021

Audaces ISA: The best Fashion PLM in the fashion market

Escrito por Audaces

textile technology

22/11/2021

Textile Technology: Trends for fashion Industry

Escrito por Audaces

person selecting clothing model on holographic screen

16/11/2021

The importance of IoT for Industry and Clothing 4.0

Escrito por Audaces

Industrial IoT

08/11/2021

Industrial IoT: What is?

Escrito por Audaces

Textile Industry 4.0

05/11/2021

Textile Industry 4.0: the revolution that all clothing needed

Escrito por Audaces

digital-technology

03/11/2021

Digital Transformation for the fashion industry through Industry 4.0

Escrito por Audaces

what-is-your-fashion-style

14/08/2020

Fashion styles: what’s yours?

Escrito por Audaces

04/08/2020

What is Muslin fabric and what is it for?

Escrito por Audaces

crepe-fabric-what-is

21/07/2020

Crepe fabric, what is

Escrito por Audaces