How to adjust the crotch point in the Audaces Pattern
Creating clothing, collections, and wearable props is a true art, and at the same time, a great challenge, as each stage of this product requires a whole universe of knowledge, techniques, and processes. So today, we’ll show you how to adjust the crotch point using our software Audaces Pattern.
Just to have an idea, Brazil occupies the 5th place in the world ranking of countries that consume more clothes and accessories. And all this success is summed up in one word: CREATIVITY.
In this way, for creativity to be maximized to the maximum, garments need to deliver pieces that have a series of aesthetic and technical requirements that bring comfort and well-being for each type of body, for each person.
In the specific case of the trousers, one of the main points of attention is the trim, which must be adequate according to the part of the trunk and how the model of the garment is seated.
However, in some cases the modeling ends up not being in accordance with the user’s body shape, therefore, adjustments to the patterns are necessary, occasionally in the crotch point region.
The height and length of the crotch point are extremely important!
But, firstly, what is the crotch point height?
The crotch point height:
So, this corresponds to the measurement of the waste that goes to the bottom of the hips. When removed in the “seated” position.
And that´s why this distance is important because with it you can determine if it is necessary to adjust the measurement from the waist to the upper legs or not.
But, changes made to the height of the trouser hook can affect the overall stitching and the side of the trousers.
After that, it is necessary to have a notion of the movement of the piece and the body context of who will use it.
The crotch point length:
Corresponds to the measurement taken from the crotch passing between the legs to the waist (back). This measure affects only the seam of the hook and not the side of the pants.
When it comes to this distance, it is important to properly distribute the total length of the hook in whatever is needed on both the front and the back.
When it is necessary to make changes in the total length of the hook it is possible to make it at the tip located at the seam insertion, and the seam on the inside of the pants legs.
It can also be modified along the hook seam. If the length is changed at the end of the hook, it is necessary to make an additional charge.
Since the width of the legs of the pants on the upper thigh increases or decreases if the seam of the hook is tightened or widened.
Want an important tip about the crotch point?
A good tip is to use the hook seam method to make changes in situations with the stomach and protruding hips.
In other words, this procedure allows adding or removing measurements at the front or back.
When there is a need to modify the height and length of the pants hook, it is important to start with the height.
In conclusion, you must measure the seam of the molded hook before determining the necessary changes, if necessary, change the length.
How to change the height of the crotch point in the Audaces Pattern:
A) To increase: cut the mold on the line where it is necessary to make the adjustment, and when necessary, remove the cut parts.
Similarly, do the same procedure with the front and back.
B) To reduce: Make a fold in the region that needs to be changed (some ready molds come with the indication “increase or decrease here”).
The depth of the fold should be equal to half of the desired reduction. Do the same with the front and back of the model.
Changing the crotch point length in Audaces Pattern
A) The crotch point method:
Draw a hook line as shown in the figure. The thread starts at the side seam and ends at the end of the hook, perpendicular to the fabric weave.
To increase the length of the hook, extend the hook tip line as far as necessary.
Draw new cut lines in the seam, the inside of the legs, and the hook. To reduce this measure, just shorten the thread at the end of the hook.
B) The crotch point sewing method
In conclusion, to increase the length of the hook cut the pattern in the area to be altered (some ready molds show the alteration line) up to the side seam and move far enough away that the line ends towards the side seam.
In order to proceed with the reduction, just fold the mold at the point of change to remove the necessary measure in the hook seam.
Reduces the thickness of the fold as much as possible so that there is no change in the seam line.
Want to know more about Audaces Pattern? Talk to a consultant here.